University Cities
Colleges older than countries set the rhythm of these towns — terms, bells, regattas and bookshops. University cities keep every visitor twenty years younger for the length of the stay.
A university town is one where the institution is older than the modern state and still sets the calendar, the rents and the conversation.
Term is the season. Population, prices and noise change twice a year on dates fixed centuries ago, and August in Oxford is a different town from October. The portraits say which one you are visiting.
The founding is usually a quarrel or a bargain. Cambridge was founded by scholars who fled a riot in Oxford in 1209 after two of their number were hanged. Leiden was offered exemption from taxes or a university after surviving a siege in 1574, and chose the university.
The buildings are working, not exhibited. Padua's anatomical theatre of 1594 was where Vesalius taught by cutting rather than reciting Galen; Coimbra's library keeps a colony of bats to eat the insects that would otherwise destroy the books, and the tables are covered in leather each night.
Access varies. Colleges, libraries and courtyards may be closed, ticketed or open depending on term; each card says which.
Go during term, and sit in the reading room if they let you.