Galle
The Portuguese fortified Galle in 1588 and the Dutch rebuilt it in coral and granite from 1663 — the largest surviving European fortification in Asia, and unusual in still being lived in, with four hundred families inside the walls. When the tsunami devastated this coast in 2004, the seventeenth-century ramparts held and the streets behind them were largely spared.
Why go
A Dutch fort with a town inside it — ramparts of 1663 enclosing streets that are still lived in. A working harbour town — not a museum; the fort has schools, mosques, offices and cricket. The Galle Literary Festival — an international programme in colonial houses each January. The southern beaches — Unawatuna, Mirissa and the whale grounds, all within an hour.
The character
The Portuguese fortified Galle in 1588, the Dutch rebuilt it in coral and granite from 1663 after taking the port, and the British kept it going — the result is the largest surviving European-built fortification in Asia, and one of very few that is not a preserved ruin. About four hundred families live inside the walls, in Dutch townhouses with verandas and internal courtyards, alongside mosques, churches, a lighthouse and one of the world's most beautifully sited cricket grounds directly outside the ramparts.
Galle also demonstrated its walls' worth in 2004: the tsunami devastated the coast and the town outside, killing thousands along this shore, but the fort's seventeenth-century ramparts held and the streets inside were largely spared. The town today lives on tourism, gems and tea shipped from the harbour, and has become the base for southern Sri Lanka — with the beaches and the whale watching an hour away, and the tea country three hours inland.
Places of character
The ramparts at sunset — walk the full circuit; locals fish, court and play cricket on them every evening. Dutch Reformed Church — 1755, with gravestones as flooring and an organ from Holland. Galle lighthouse — 1939, at the fort's eastern point, with the most photographed corner of the walls. Galle International Cricket Stadium — between the fort and the sea; you can watch a test from the ramparts for free. Maritime Archaeology Museum — in a Dutch warehouse of 1671, with wrecks from the harbour. Mirissa and the whale grounds — an hour east, for blue whales from November to April.
The way to do it
Stay inside the fort, in one of the converted Dutch houses. Walk the ramparts twice, morning and evening — they are completely different. Watch cricket from the wall if a match is on, which costs nothing and is the local pastime. And take the coast east for whales rather than west for crowds.
One perfect day
The ramparts at six, when the light is low and the fishermen are out on the wall. Breakfast of hoppers and coconut sambol. Morning in the fort's lanes: the Dutch church, the warehouses, the gem shops, all within a few hundred metres. Lunch of rice and curry, seven dishes, in a courtyard. Afternoon out to Unawatuna for a swim, or the maritime museum if the sea is rough. Back for the cricket ground from the wall if there is a match. Sunset circuit of the ramparts with the whole town on them, and dinner of crab curry inside the fort.
Grand hotels
Amangalla — the 1684 Dutch officers' quarters, later the New Oriental Hotel, restored by Aman. Fort Bazaar — a merchant's townhouse inside the walls, smaller and less expensive.
When to go
Best expression: December to March — the southern dry season, with whales offshore and the festival in January. Consider: late November, before the season, with everything open and prices lower. Avoid if possible: May to September, the southwest monsoon, when this coast takes the weather.
The frame
Ideal stay 3 nights · Minimum 2 nights · Best arrival the coastal train from Colombo, three hours along the sea · Airport CMB, 130 km · Walkability the fort entirely on foot · Best without a car yes, with tuk-tuks