Valparaíso

Valparaíso grew up the amphitheatre of hills behind its port, and because the slopes are too steep for streets, fifteen funiculars built between 1883 and 1916 still do the work of lifts. Two or three of them, then the murals between Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción, and understand that the port's decline after the Panama Canal is why so much nineteenth-century fabric survives.