Hanoi
Street Kitchen of the North
Portrait
Hanoi's old quarter has thirty-six streets historically named for the guild that worked each one, and the street food is organised the same way — a stall makes one dish for decades and nothing else. Phở, bún chả and egg coffee are all northern, and Obama and Bourdain eating bún chả on plastic stools did more for the city's reputation abroad than any campaign.
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