Muskoka
Farming failed on the thin soil of the Canadian Shield here, so the region's economy became summer people instead — steamships brought Toronto families from the 1870s, and the cottage became a Canadian institution passed down through families. The RMS Segwun of 1887 still runs, and the maples turn across the whole region in the last week of September.
Why go
Sixteen hundred lakes — granite, pine and water, two hours north of Toronto. Cottage country as an institution — a summer culture that has run since the 1870s. Steamships on Lake Muskoka — the RMS Segwun, built 1887 and still in service. Autumn colour — maple and birch turning across the whole region in late September.
The character
Muskoka is Canadian Shield country: granite scraped bare by ice, filled with sixteen hundred lakes, covered in pine, maple and birch. Farming failed here — the soil is too thin — and the region's economy became summer people instead. From the 1870s steamships brought Toronto and American families to hotels on the lakes, and the cottage, or "the cottage" as a definite article, became a Canadian institution: a family property on the water, passed down, opened at May long weekend and closed at Thanksgiving.
Three big lakes — Muskoka, Rosseau and Joseph — carry the old money, with boathouses that are architecture in their own right and a mahogany launch culture kept alive by restorers. The rest of the region is quieter and cheaper. The RMS Segwun, launched in 1887 and still steaming, is North America's oldest operating mail steamship. And in the last week of September the maples turn across the whole area, which brings a second season of visitors driving slowly with the windows down.
Places of character
RMS Segwun — the 1887 steamship, cruising Lake Muskoka from Gravenhurst. Algonquin Park — an hour east; canoe routes, moose and the interior most visitors never enter. Boathouse architecture — two-storey wooden boathouses on Lakes Rosseau and Joseph, best seen from the water. Huntsville and Bracebridge — the working towns, with the Group of Seven trail and waterfalls. Dorset Lookout Tower — a fire tower over the lakes, and the classic autumn colour photograph. Muskoka chairs — the region's export, on every dock, angled to face the water.
The way to do it
Get on the water — a boat, a canoe or the steamship, because Muskoka from the road is trees. Rent a cottage rather than a hotel if you can, which is how the region works. Go in late September for the colour, or July and August for the swimming. And take a day into Algonquin for the interior.
One perfect day
Coffee on a dock at seven with mist coming off the lake and a loon calling. Canoe for two hours before the wind. Breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Late morning on the Segwun from Gravenhurst, passing boathouses on Millionaires' Row. Lunch in Port Carling. Afternoon into Algonquin for a short interior paddle or the Lookout Trail. Back for a swim off the dock as the light goes gold. Dinner outside, then a fire, and the Milky Way over the lake with no light for fifty kilometres.
Grand hotels
JW Marriott The Rosseau — the region's large resort on Lake Rosseau. Windermere House — an 1870 lakeside hotel rebuilt after a fire, and the older Muskoka manner.
When to go
Best expression: late September, for maple colour and warm days with cold nights. Consider: July and August, when the lakes are swimmable and the cottage season is at full pitch. Avoid if possible: April and November, mud and grey between seasons, when much is closed.
The frame
Ideal stay 3 nights · Minimum 2 nights · Best arrival by car from Toronto, two hours · Airport YYZ, 200 km · Walkability none — this is boat and car country · Best without a car no