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Collection X · 14 cities

Grand Hotel Destinations

Some hotels outgrew their cities and became destinations; some cities are best read from a grand hotel's terrace. This collection pairs them — palaces with a lobby.

The grand hotel was an invention of the railway, and it arrived with a specific job: to make a place worth reaching. Before 1850 a traveller of means stayed with acquaintances or in an inn; after it, a company would build two hundred rooms at the end of a new line and gamble that the building itself would generate the traffic. Often it did.

Three things follow from that origin, and they divide this collection.

Some of these hotels created the destination outright. Johannes Badrutt bet English guests in 1864 that they could sit outdoors in January at St Moritz, and won the wager and the winter season with it; Flagler laid rails to a Florida sandbar in 1894 and built the Royal Poinciana to fill them; the Riviera and the Normandy coast were assembled the same way, one building at a time.

Others are urban palaces, where the hotel did not make the city but became the room in which the city conducted itself — the Raffles long bar, the Peninsula lobby, the Danieli's staircase. These are working addresses in places that were already important, and the interest is what happens inside rather than what the building caused.

The third group is smaller and stranger: hotels that outlived the society they were built for. Baden-Baden's colonnades, the Old Cataract at Aswan, the Newport cottages — buildings whose original clientele has vanished entirely and which now function as evidence of it.

The test for inclusion is not luxury. It is whether the hotel changed what its address means.

Hotels That Made the Place · 5
Switzerland

St Moritz

Winter Light of the Engadine
Winter tourism was invented here on a bet: in 1864 hotelier Johannes Badrutt promised his English summer guests…
France

Deauville

The Norman Promenade
The Duc de Morny built Deauville from marshland in 1860 with a racecourse, a casino and a railway from Paris…
France

Biarritz

Imperial Surf
Eugénie persuaded Napoleon III to build a villa here in 1854, and the imperial fashion turned a whaling village…
France

Cannes

Cinema & Elegance
Lord Brougham was quarantined here in 1834, liked it and built a villa, and the English winter colony followed…
Switzerland

Gstaad

Chalets & Silence
A village of chalets in the Bernese Oberland has kept its high street car-free and its buildings low by rule…
Urban Palaces · 5
Italy

Venice

Republic on Water
A hundred and eighteen islands, joined by four hundred bridges and no roads, still hold the shape a merchant…
Singapore

Singapore

Polished Modernity
An island republic no larger than a mid-sized city treats its own territory as a drawing to be revised…
China

Hong Kong

Vertical Drama
Seven million people occupy a quarter of the territory because the rest is too steep to build on, and the…
Egypt

Cairo

In the Pyramids' Shadow
The Fatimids laid out al-Qahira in 969 and its gates still stand; what accumulated since is the densest…
Monaco

Monaco

Compact Prestige
The Grimaldis were nearly bankrupt in 1863 when they licensed a casino at Monte-Carlo and abolished income tax…
Outliving the Season · 4
Germany

Baden-Baden

Kurhaus & Casino
Twelve hot springs made this small Black Forest town the summer capital of nineteenth-century Europe, and the…
USA, RI

Newport

The Gilded Cottages
New York families built summer houses here from the 1850s that they insisted on calling cottages — The Breakers…
Switzerland

Montreux

Jazz on the Lake
A microclimate on Lake Geneva lets palms and magnolias grow at forty-six degrees north, which brought…
Switzerland

Lucerne

Lake & Wooden Bridge
Lucerne sits where the Reuss leaves a lake shaped by four valleys, and its Chapel Bridge has carried people…
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