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Collection XV · 10 cities

Desert Oases

Water in an impossible place, and a settlement organised entirely around it: palm groves, underground channels, mud-brick walls and a temperature swing of thirty degrees between noon and dawn. Arrive late in the day and stay for the night sky.

Every town in this collection is an answer to the same question: where does the water come from, and how do you keep it from evaporating before you use it?

The answers are the most impressive engineering in the atlas, and almost none of it is visible. Turpan sits 154 metres below sea level in one of the hottest places in China and grows grapes, because the karez — thousands of kilometres of hand-dug tunnel — bring snowmelt down from the Tian Shan underground, where it cannot evaporate. Yazd does the same with qanats and adds badgirs, wind towers that catch any breeze and drive it down over water to cool the rooms below. Siwa has hundreds of springs in a depression eighteen metres below sea level, and grew citrus and olives on them for two and a half thousand years.

The others are answers of a different kind. San Pedro sits in the driest desert on earth, so dry that it holds the world's largest radio telescope array because there is almost no water vapour in the air to interfere. Nazca's lines survive precisely because nothing falls on them. AlUla and Dunhuang existed to water caravans, and their monuments are what the traffic paid for.

None of these places is a landscape with a town in it. Each is a piece of hydraulic reasoning that happens to be inhabited, and the reasoning is usually older than anything you can see.

Water Brought Underground · 2
China

Turpan

The Grape Oasis
Turpan lies in a depression 154 metres below sea level in one of the hottest parts of China, and it grows…
Egypt

Siwa

The Oracle Oasis
Siwa lies below sea level in the Western Desert near the Libyan border, and Alexander crossed the sand in 331…
Watering the Caravan · 3
China

Dunhuang

The Mogao Library
Monks began cutting cave temples at Mogao in 366, and by the fourteenth century there were 492 painted chambers…
Saudi Arabia

AlUla

Desert Civilization
Dadan, the Lihyanites and then the Nabataeans built along this valley on the incense route, and Hegra — the…
Oman

Salalah

The Khareef Monsoon
From late June to September the khareef brings cloud, drizzle and twenty-five degrees to the Dhofar coast…
Where Dryness Is the Asset · 5
Chile

San Pedro de Atacama

The Atacama Oasis
Parts of the Atacama have no recorded rainfall, and that aridity is why ALMA — sixty-six radio antennas at five…
Peru

Nazca

The Desert Lines
The geoglyphs were made between about 500 BC and AD 500 by removing reddish surface stones to expose pale…
China

Zhangye

The Rainbow Cliffs
Sandstone and mudstone laid down over twenty-four million years, coloured differently by their mineral content…
USA, AZ

Sedona

The Red Rock Cathedral
The red comes from iron oxide in sandstone laid down 280 million years ago, and the buttes are what erosion…
Morocco

Dakhla

Kitesurf on the Sahara
A forty-kilometre lagoon lies between the dunes and the ocean here, with flat water, three hundred windy days…
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