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Collection XXIII · 26 cities

The Great Quarters

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Quarters known better than the cities holding them, and asked for by name — Monte-Carlo is worth more than Monaco, Mayfair more than London. Each has a page here, because a reader looking for the quarter should not have to arrive through the city.

A quarter is not a district. Districts are administrative and every city has them; a quarter is a name people give as an answer to where they live, and it carries information the postcode does not. This collection holds cities where at least one such name has outlived the reason it was given.

The mechanism is usually a single decision, taken once and defended for two centuries. Belgravia was laid out by Thomas Cubitt from 1826 on the Grosvenor family's marshland, to one design, with stucco terraces and garden squares that the estate still controls through leases; Mayfair and Knightsbridge came from the same landowning logic on the same side of the same park. Paris did the reverse — Haussmann cut boulevards through everything, and the quarters that survive as names, Faubourg Saint-Germain and the streets behind the Étoile, are the ones the cutting spared or created. Vienna's Innere Stadt is what the walls left when they came down in 1857.

Some quarters are made by a wall of a different kind. Shanghai's former French Concession keeps plane trees and lane houses because a foreign administration zoned it that way before 1943, and the trees are now protected. Cairo's Zamalek is an island. Mumbai's Malabar Hill is high ground in a city that has almost none. Hong Kong's Peak was reserved by ordinance for Europeans until 1946, which is an ugly origin for the most expensive residential ground in Asia and is not softened by leaving it out.

The American and Latin quarters are younger and were sold rather than inherited. New York's Upper East Side became what it is after Central Park opened and the Fifth Avenue mansions followed the park north; Buenos Aires' Recoleta grew around a cemetery when yellow fever drove the wealthy out of the south; Mexico City's Polanco and São Paulo's Jardins were laid out in the 1920s and 1930s as garden suburbs and were swallowed by the cities they were built to escape.

What the twenty-six have in common is that the name survives independently of the boundary. Nobody can say precisely where Belgravia stops. Everybody knows what it means.

Global Capitals · 7
China

Hong Kong

Vertical Drama
The Peak, reserved by ordinance for Europeans until 1946
UK

London

Global Classic
Belgravia, Mayfair and Knightsbridge — one landowner's logic, three names
USA, NY

New York City

Urban Intensity
The Upper East Side, which followed Central Park north
France

Paris

Elegance as Culture
Faubourg Saint-Germain — what Haussmann's cutting spared
South Korea

Seoul

Creative Velocity
Seongbuk-dong, walled gardens behind the old city wall
China

Shanghai

Cosmopolitan Momentum
The former French Concession, its plane trees now protected
Japan

Tokyo

Precision & Imagination
Azabu, embassies and low houses in the same lanes
Imperial Capitals · 5
Hungary

Budapest

Two Cities on the Danube
Rózsadomb, the hill the city's money climbed
Spain

Madrid

Royal Energy
Salamanca — a marquis's grid, and it still carries his name
Czechia

Prague

The Bohemian Crown
Malá Strana, below the castle and beneath its notice
Italy

Rome

Eternal Layers
Parioli, laid out in the 1920s above the Villa Borghese
Austria

Vienna

Imperial Culture
The Innere Stadt, which is what the walls left in 1857
Megacities · 5
Argentina

Buenos Aires

Southern Tango
Recoleta, which grew around a cemetery in a yellow fever year
Turkey

Istanbul

Imperial Crossroads
Nişantaşı, where the sultan's archery range used to be
Mexico

Mexico City

City on the Lake
Polanco — a 1930s garden suburb the city swallowed
India

Mumbai

Cinematic Harbour
Malabar Hill — high ground in a city with almost none
Brazil

São Paulo

Concrete Horizon
Jardins, built to escape the city it is now inside
Ancient Cities · 2
Lebanon

Beirut

Phoenix of the Levant
Achrafieh, the hill that kept its stone houses
Egypt

Cairo

In the Pyramids' Shadow
Zamalek, which is an island
Culture & Art Capitals · 2
Spain

Barcelona

Mediterranean Imagination
The Eixample, Cerdà's grid with the corners cut off
Germany

Berlin

A Night Without Closing Time
Grunewald — a forest suburb that survived two divisions
Craft & Design Capitals · 2
Denmark

Copenhagen

Northern Simplicity
Frederiksstaden — four identical palaces around an octagon
Sweden

Stockholm

Archipelago Minimalism
Östermalm, built for officers and never let go
Cities on Water · 1
Netherlands

Amsterdam

Canals & Liberty
The Grachtengordel — three canals dug as one project
Fashion Capitals · 1
Italy

Milan

Design Discipline
The Quadrilatero d'Oro, assembled by tenants rather than planners
Port & Trading Cities · 1
Portugal

Lisbon

Capital of Discovery
Príncipe Real, around a cedar trained flat into a canopy
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