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Collection XXIII · 26 cities

The Great Quarters

A quarter is not a district. Districts are administrative and every city has them; a quarter is a name people give as an answer to where they live, and it carries information the postcode does not. This collection holds cities where at least one such name has outlived the reason it was given.

The mechanism is usually a single decision, taken once and defended for two centuries. Belgravia was laid out by Thomas Cubitt from 1826 on the Grosvenor family's marshland, to one design, with stucco terraces and garden squares that the estate still controls through leases; Mayfair and Knightsbridge came from the same landowning logic on the same side of the same park. Paris did the reverse — Haussmann cut boulevards through everything, and the quarters that survive as names, Faubourg Saint-Germain and the streets behind the Étoile, are the ones the cutting spared or created. Vienna's Innere Stadt is what the walls left when they came down in 1857.

Some quarters are made by a wall of a different kind. Shanghai's former French Concession keeps plane trees and lane houses because a foreign administration zoned it that way before 1943, and the trees are now protected. Cairo's Zamalek is an island. Mumbai's Malabar Hill is high ground in a city that has almost none. Hong Kong's Peak was reserved by ordinance for Europeans until 1946, which is an ugly origin for the most expensive residential ground in Asia and is not softened by leaving it out.

The American and Latin quarters are younger and were sold rather than inherited. New York's Upper East Side became what it is after Central Park opened and the Fifth Avenue mansions followed the park north; Buenos Aires' Recoleta grew around a cemetery when yellow fever drove the wealthy out of the south; Mexico City's Polanco and São Paulo's Jardins were laid out in the 1920s and 1930s as garden suburbs and were swallowed by the cities they were built to escape.

What the twenty-six have in common is that the name survives independently of the boundary. Nobody can say precisely where Belgravia stops. Everybody knows what it means.

Global Capitals · 7
China

Hong Kong

Vertical Drama
Seven million people occupy a quarter of the territory because the rest is too steep to build on, and the…
UK

London

Global Classic
London never had a plan: it grew by swallowing villages, which is why Hampstead, Greenwich and Spitalfields…
USA, NY

New York City

Urban Intensity
A single rectangular grid, drawn in 1811 and filled skyward ever since, still sets the world's mental image of…
France

Paris

Elegance as Culture
Haussmann cut boulevards through the medieval city between 1853 and 1870, and the result — uniform stone…
South Korea

Seoul

Creative Velocity
Almost nothing survived the war of 1950–53, and what stands now was built by a country that went from among the…
China

Shanghai

Cosmopolitan Momentum
The Bund's banks and trading houses were built by foreign powers between 1860 and 1930; the towers facing them…
Japan

Tokyo

Precision & Imagination
Rebuilt twice within thirty years — after the 1923 earthquake and the 1945 firebombing — Tokyo grew as a ring…
Imperial Capitals · 5
Hungary

Budapest

Two Cities on the Danube
Buda's hills and Pest's plain were separate towns until 1873, and the parliament built after unification — 691…
Spain

Madrid

Royal Energy
Philip II moved the court here in 1561 from Toledo, choosing a small town near the geographic centre of Iberia…
Czechia

Prague

The Bohemian Crown
Prague was neither bombed flat nor rebuilt in concrete, so a thousand years of Romanesque, Gothic, baroque and…
Italy

Rome

Eternal Layers
Twenty-eight centuries of power lie here in horizontal strata — a pagan temple as a church floor, a stadium as…
Austria

Vienna

Imperial Culture
Vienna ran an empire of fifty million from a single ring of palaces, and when that empire dissolved the same…
Megacities · 5
Argentina

Buenos Aires

Southern Tango
Between 1880 and 1930 six million people arrived, over half of them Italian, and the wealth of the beef and…
Turkey

Istanbul

Imperial Crossroads
Byzantium, Constantinople and Istanbul occupy the same peninsula, and the Bosphorus that divides Europe from…
Mexico

Mexico City

City on the Lake
Tenochtitlan held a quarter of a million people on an island when the Spanish arrived, and the colonial city…
India

Mumbai

Cinematic Harbour
Mumbai was seven islands granted to Charles II as part of Catherine of Braganza's dowry and leased to the East…
Brazil

São Paulo

Concrete Horizon
São Paulo grew on coffee money and then industry into the largest city in the southern hemisphere, and its…
Ancient Cities · 2
Lebanon

Beirut

Phoenix of the Levant
Beirut has been levelled by earthquake, invasion and war at least seven times, and the excavations in the…
Egypt

Cairo

In the Pyramids' Shadow
The Fatimids laid out al-Qahira in 969 and its gates still stand; what accumulated since is the densest…
Culture & Art Capitals · 2
Spain

Barcelona

Mediterranean Imagination
Ildefons Cerdà planned the Eixample in 1859 as an open grid with chamfered corners and gardens in every block…
Germany

Berlin

A Night Without Closing Time
Berlin was divided for twenty-eight years and reunited into a city with two of everything and a vast quantity…
Craft & Design Capitals · 2
Denmark

Copenhagen

Northern Simplicity
Danish modernism made chairs, lamps and cutlery that are still in production sixty years on — Wegner, Jacobsen…
Sweden

Stockholm

Archipelago Minimalism
Stockholm is built on fourteen islands where a lake meets the Baltic, and the water is clean enough to fish for…
Cities on Water · 1
Netherlands

Amsterdam

Canals & Liberty
The grachtengordel was laid out from 1613 as one project — four concentric canals with plots sold to fund the…
Fashion Capitals · 1
Italy

Milan

Design Discipline
Milan hides everything behind façades: the courtyard is the basic unit, and the difference between a grey…
Port & Trading Cities · 1
Portugal

Lisbon

Capital of Discovery
On All Saints' Day 1755 an earthquake, fire and tsunami destroyed most of Lisbon, and the Marquês de Pombal…
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