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Collection XX · 14 cities

The Great Drives

Gran turismo — the phrase the motor industry borrowed from the Grand Tour, and the older meaning is the better one. Every other collection here is a set of places. This one is a set of roads, on the argument that some geography can only be understood at the speed of a car and in the right order — the corniche that reveals the coast a bend at a time, the pass that explains why two valleys speak different languages, the highway built across water because there was no other way to reach the end.

Gran turismo is a phrase the motor industry borrowed from the Grand Tour in the 1920s, for cars built to cross a continent quickly with luggage. The borrowing was accurate. The original Tour was not a list of cities but an order of arrival, and its whole pedagogy lay in the transitions — the crossing of the Alps, described by every eighteenth-century traveller as an ordeal, taught more about Italy than the first week in Rome.

Every other collection in this atlas is a set of places. This one is a set of roads, on the argument that some geography can only be read at driving speed and in sequence.

Three kinds of road do it. The corniche reveals a coast one bend at a time and cannot be understood from either end: the Amalfi road, the Grande Corniche above Monaco, Highway One through Big Sur, where landslides close the route most years and residents treat it as a condition of living there. The pass explains why two valleys speak different languages, and the tunnel that replaced it — Mont Blanc, fifteen minutes instead of a season — changed both towns at its ends. And the built crossing exists because there was no other way: the Overseas Highway running a hundred and thirteen miles over open water, the Karakoram climbing to 4,693 metres at the highest paved border on earth.

None of these is a distance between two points. Each is an argument about a landscape, made at thirty miles an hour.

The Corniche · 5
USA, CA

Big Sur

The Ragged Coast
The Santa Lucia mountains drop straight into the Pacific with no shelf between them, and until Highway 1 was…
Italy

Positano

The Vertical Village
Positano falls down a cliff in tiers, which means there are more steps than streets and every house has the sea…
France

Èze

The Eagle's Nest
Èze occupies a rock four hundred metres above the Mediterranean, built as a defensive site and reached by a…
Italy

Cinque Terre

Five Villages on the Cliff
The terraces that make agriculture possible here are retained by dry-stone walls which, laid end to end, would…
Italy

Monte Argentario

Rome's Own Promontory
Argentario is a mountain in the sea attached to Tuscany by three tomboli — sandbars enclosing lagoons full of…
The Pass · 4
France

Chamonix

At the Foot of Mont Blanc
Two men from Chamonix reached the summit of Mont Blanc in 1786 to claim a reward offered by a Genevan…
Italy

Courmayeur

South Face of Mont Blanc
Courmayeur faces the south side of Mont Blanc, and since 1965 an eleven-kilometre tunnel has connected it to…
Switzerland

Andermatt

The Rebuilt Pass
Andermatt sits at the junction of the Gotthard, Furka and Oberalp passes and lived on the Swiss army garrison…
Italy

Cortina d'Ampezzo

Queen of the Dolomites
The Dolomites are fossil coral reefs uplifted into vertical towers, and the rock's magnesium content makes it…
The Built Crossing · 3
USA, FL

Key West

Mile Zero
Key West sits ninety miles from Cuba at the end of a hundred-and-thirteen-mile highway built on the piers of a…
China

Tashkurgan

Stone Fort of the Pamirs
Tashkurgan means stone fortress, and the ruined citadel on the plateau at 3,100 metres guarded the route…
Norway

Bergen

Gateway to the Fjords
Bergen sits in a bowl of seven hills at the head of a fjord, which traps Atlantic weather and gives the city…
The Road to the End · 2
Chile

Puerto Natales

Trailhead to Torres del Paine
Puerto Natales was founded in 1911 to ship wool from the Patagonian estancias, and its corrugated iron houses…
New Zealand

Wanaka

The Lone Tree Lake
Wanaka sits on a glacial lake at the entrance to Mount Aspiring National Park, and a crack willow growing in…
All collections