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Collection XII · 11 cities

Safari & Wildlife Gateways

These towns exist as hinges: modest in themselves, they are where the vehicles are loaded, the permits checked and the guides hired for an encounter with animals that live entirely on their own terms. The trip begins the moment the tarmac ends.

Safari is the Swahili word for journey, and it entered English through the East African coast in the 1860s. What it named then was an expedition of months with porters and rifles; what it names now is a room with a plunge pool and a driver who knows where the leopard was yesterday. The change is not decadence — it is the direct result of the animals becoming scarce enough to need protecting rather than shooting.

The towns in this collection are not the wildlife. They are the doorways: the last airstrip, the last bank, the place where the vehicle is loaded and the permit is checked. That role explains their character better than anything else. Arusha exists to dispatch people to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro; Livingstone was built by the railway to reach a waterfall; Churchill has no road connection at all and its residents leave car doors unlocked so that anyone caught out can shelter from a bear.

Three kinds of doorway do it, and they demand different things of the visitor. The classic savannah gateways run on vehicles, dry seasons and the discipline of the early start. The polar and marine gateways run on ice, tides and a boat. And the rainforest gateways run on rivers, because there is no other way in: Iquitos, a city of half a million, cannot be reached by road from anywhere.

What all of them share is that the place you have come to see does not want you in it, and the town is the negotiation.

The Savannah Gateways · 4
Tanzania

Arusha

Where Safari Begins
Arusha sits at 1,400 metres between Mount Meru and the Maasai Steppe and exists to outfit safaris — Serengeti…
Kenya

Nairobi

A Park beside the City
Nairobi National Park was gazetted in 1946 and its northern fence is the city's edge, so lions, rhino and…
Rwanda

Kigali

Land of a Thousand Hills
Kigali is built across a series of hills at 1,500 metres, with neighbourhoods on hilltops and valleys between…
Zambia

Livingstone

Thunder of the Falls
Victoria Falls is 1.7 kilometres wide and in flood drops around 500 million litres a minute, throwing spray…
Ice and Tide · 3
Canada, MB

Churchill

Polar Bear Crossing
Churchill has no road in — only rail and air — and each October and November the polar bears gather on the…
South Africa

Hermanus

Whales from the Cliff
Southern right whales come into Walker Bay to calve between June and November, close enough to the cliffs that…
Chile

Puerto Natales

Trailhead to Torres del Paine
Puerto Natales was founded in 1911 to ship wool from the Patagonian estancias, and its corrugated iron houses…
By River Only · 4
Peru

Iquitos

The City without Roads
Half a million people live in Iquitos and you can arrive only by river or air — there is no road to anywhere.
Brazil

Manaus

Opera in the Amazon
The Teatro Amazonas of 1896 used Italian marble, Alsatian tiles and Scottish ironwork shipped 1,500 kilometres…
Indonesia

Labuan Bajo

The Dragon Harbour
Komodo dragons grow to three metres and have venom glands confirmed in 2009, and they live wild on four islands…
Australia

Cairns

Gate of the Barrier Reef
Cairns exists to reach the Great Barrier Reef, ninety minutes offshore, and the Daintree rainforest an hour…
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